Oh Lord, here we go.
Yasser Arafat in a keffiyeh (Wikipedia)
For the record, I do not think that all fashion is mindless and that appropriating something into the fashion world necessarily robs it of its meaning or value. A lot of fashion is art and it's used to define and communicate within and between our social groups, an incredibly valuable function. But with that in mind, what do you think you're saying to all of the Native and part Native people that are alive and still native in the world right now when you make a shitty, knock off headdress and slap some warpaint haphazardly on your cheeks and pose for a pic with a tomahawk? Given the fact that this is being done primarily by the dominant culture (as most of the style blogs with wide readership are written by young, affluent, white women), trivializing the spiritual and cultural meanings of these symbols is robbing the remaining American Indians of the parts of their culture that they've managed to hold onto through all of the ridiculous shit that the American government has put them through (and basically saying that you don't give a fuck).
The Haute Pursuit
Hopefully you have some familiarity with these atrocities through your US (or world) history class, but you probably don't think about the things that are going on right now very much because they don't get talked about very much. No one wants to hear about the plight of the Indians, right? That shit's a bummer. But, to raise your awareness for one second, within the last 20 years the air force wanted to test their planes flying low over a field of cows, but PETA raised a big fat stink. There were COWS in that pasture and everyone knows that sonic boom level noises will scare the shit out of those poor cows. Solution? the government rerouted the test flights to be over an Indian reservation. Indians matter way less than cows. And that's just one of the many examples. The government also really likes to dump toxic waste onto reservations.
My Floor is Red
So maybe this is why I get so fucking mad when I see another picture of a blogger I respect and admire who puts on a headdress and thinks she's being cute. While most of my native friends more or less brush this under the rug as merely another example of how ridiculous white America (and Canada and Italy and France) can be, I'm not willing to be so silent. If people passively let this continue, nothing in the way we think is going to change. If the headdresses and warpaint are meant to respect and honor the native culture, if the trend is truly meant as a bridge rather than a fence, then it has to be treated as such. Making a mockery of an entire group of people is not any way to create a bridge between the cultures. Obviously I'm not the first to write on the topic; this debate has sort of blown up on the internet as of late, but it seems to have only reached ears that want to hear. My anger surrounding all of this is fueled by the total ignorance I've been met with when trying to point out how horrifying this trend can be. And it's not even that people are just ignorant, it's that they really don't care at all how racist they're being once it's been pointed out. In an attempt to enlighten one craft blogger, I got this e-mail in response:
I'm sorry to hear that you were disappointed in last weeks project post.
Last weeks "Boho headpiece" project (in addition to all the rest) are all about drawing inspiration from beautiful, wonderful, magical, provoking, lovely images, people, places, and products. Our goal is to never copy one single trend, person, culture, etc. It is simply a culmination of the above mentioned.
Whether its the California boho styles, or a vivid image from a High-Fashion Magazine, we truly think that whosever look, style, or sheer essence is amazing/commendable, we pay homage to it/them via Designer DIY.
I hope you will continue to stay a fan of [blog name removed]... and again, sorry for causing you any discomfort with the posting.
She doesn't give a flying fuck! And she's totally ignorant of what she's drawing from. (Also, she needs to find the apostrophe key and figure out how to write an e-mail that doesn't make her sound like she's on 12 hits of acid, but that's neither here nor there.) Here's the inspiration collage attached to the post that I complained about:
I do always read carefully every single comment, so this mean I've given attention even to yours. I think I understand what you're meaning, but in my opinion I'm not feeling so out of contest with these pictures. My intention wasn't to appear dressed like a "native": wearing feathers and some "special" make up don't hurt a specif kind of ethnic group but if so I'm sorry!
Wow. Just wow. She gave attention, even to my comment? What a doll. I know there's some language barriers here, but that's a little passive aggressive. But either way, her makeup isn't "special," it's offensive. And her feathers do hurt a specific ethnic group because the feather headdress has a very specific cultural, spiritual, and ceremonial meaning. Not to mention that she's sitting in the middle of a fucking wheat field with her hand to her forehead like she's searching the horizon for prey. Warpaint, wheat field, inappropriately worn headdress. To me, this spells o-f-f-e-n-s-i-v-e.
Awww, cute baby. Doesn't that make you feel better?
I'm not asking a lot here, and I know that headdress probably set you back more money than you're willing to admit, but if you take one thing from this article, please just think about the role of fashion as communication between cultures and also communication about the power relationships therein. By making a mockery of Natives (because that is what you do when you wear a headdress inappropriately), you're asserting your presumed superiority and trying to give it the appearance of being a natural power relationship. White people can do that and look ironic or whatever, but a) if a Native person wanted to make a mockery of you, they wouldn't have anything comparable to appropriate and b) if a Native person were to wear some DIY Michael's headdress, it would convey a whole new set of meanings that I'm not qualified to get into in this post. When non-Native hipsters appropriate Native fashion, it's like claiming that hipsters have more of a right to ascribe meaning to these items than Native Americans do. Tell me you see how that's more than a little fucked up. There's nothing about your (or his or hers or my) culture that makes it inherently better than any other.
"If you are not Native American but are just trying to make a headdress for an art project, we recommend making a beaded headband, since headbands do not have the same sacred meaning of many other Indian headdresses and do not require you to understand complex cultural traditions to create one properly. The book North American Indian Beadwork Patternsincludes a nice pattern for beading a Native American headband."
My friend Jordan at a powwow (top) and working at his thoroughly modern job as an EMT (bottom)
NIce post...
ReplyDeletethis post is really interesting
ReplyDeletei love your blog, just stumbled across it. you were the only commenter at holier than now who was intelligent enough to really respond to the question about turbans making some sort of come-back (i wasn't aware that they were ever in "style?"). i blog at burstmarket.blogspot.com and focus a little on pop culture (media, news) but mainly on women providing alt representations of femininity. i really want to do a post on you/whiskey tango foxtrot. where are you from?
ReplyDeletefantastic round-up and explanation. the first time i heard criticism leveled against a fashion blogger for wearing a neon warbonnet, i didn't really get it, but i'm totally hearing you. my theory is that it's often meant as a sort of harkening back to childhood...cowboys and indians, halloween costumes, thanksgiving plays etc. sorta like how all the hipsters were dressing up as max from "where the wild things are" for a while. which is definitely not to justify it.
ReplyDeleteanyways. great post. thank you. i'll have to include this in my next linkage post.
Holly - Thanks for your thoughtful response to my post, especially since it gives me a chance to rattle off a couple of other thoughts I've been having. I know that I haven't yet pegged where the native trend comes from; there must have been some pool of original inspiration a few years back (film? photography? the environmental movement?). I hear you about the childhood bit, but how often did our generation do the cowboys and indians thing? I don't recall ever playing it as a kid. The closest I came was to making the construction paper feather headbands around Thanksgiving. (I hope to god they don't do that in schools anymore.) But at the same time, there were plenty of racist cartoon images--pocahontas, for one. So why is it that we dress like Native Americans instead of like smurfs? Or the munchkins from the wizard of oz? Man, I loved that movie as kid!
ReplyDeleteBut I think what you have hit on is the fantasy element that I definitely see there. I think there is a blend of the escapist desires of the modern hipsters and the fact that native americans really seem to represent the eco movement for white people. Our idea of their original connection to the earth, the way they think about time and human connection, it can all be rather inspirational. But I don't think that's what the warbonnet represents in pop culture at this moment. I think it's been appropriated so many times over that it is now just an empty, mocking symbol.
Quite :/
ReplyDeleteMy mama's a teacher...I'll have to ask her about Thanksgiving in her elementary school.
I didn't even notice you were a San Francisco blogger, and then it turns out we were even at the same [tiny] concert? Crazy! I love it. A pleasure to make your acquaintance!
I never even knew those scarves meant something and were from a different culture! Dumb. Now I'm all interested to find out the true meaning of these Native pieces we've trivialized with fashion.
ReplyDeleteYou know what makes me laugh (sardonically) at the white appropriation of Native symbols?
ReplyDeleteBack when there actually were more than like, 5 Native Americans left, they forcibly sent their children to schools where they were made to assimilate into white "American" culture. So it's bad for people who are actually "ethnic" to be "ethnic", but it's okay for white people to? It just doesn't make any sense.
Personally, I tread carefully when it comes to making a fashion trend out of cultural aspects. I truly believe it requires a least a little research (I don't even mean hours spent poring over dusty books -- the internet is here for all of us to use! For good!), instead of going on assumptions and stereotypes.